Skin dryness does not just happen. There is a process that starts long before we can see and feel it in our skin. Although the body is a complicated system and many factors contribute to the development of dry skin, we can narrow it down to two main causes.
Poor microcirculation – The outer layer of the skin is called the epidermis and it is avascular. This means that no blood vessels supply it directly with blood and therefore with water and nutrients for the cells. Because of that, water and nutrients from the dermis (the skin layer under the epidermis) must diffuse upward to reach the epidermal layers.
With age and other factors, blood vessels in the dermis become less efficient and the overall microcirculation slows down. This can challenge the supply of oxygen, nutrients, and water to the epidermis.
Water is essential for normal cellular function. Most biochemical processes inside cells occur in a water-based environment. When hydration in the skin decreases, cellular signaling becomes less efficient, enzyme activity slows down, and the normal turnover of skin cells can be disrupted. As a result, the skin surface may appear dull, rough, and dry.
One group of molecules known to support vascular and cellular health are omega-3 fatty acids and omega-6 fatty acids. These fatty acids are important components of cell membranes and play a role in inflammatory signaling and vascular function. They help maintain membrane fluidity and support the normal function of endothelial cells, which line the blood vessels.
Omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids can be supplied to the body orally through the diet or supplements. Important omega-3 fatty acids include eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), which are commonly found in fatty fish and fish oil.
These fatty acids can also be applied topically in cosmetic products, where they contribute to skin barrier lipids and help reduce water loss from the skin. Cosmetic ingredients that naturally contain omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids include plant oils such as linoleic acid-rich oils, including sunflower oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, and borage oil, as well as oils containing omega-3 fatty acids such as flaxseed oil and chia seed oil.
By supporting both systemic health and the lipid environment of the skin, these fatty acids can contribute to maintaining skin hydration and overall skin function.
Chronic inflammation – Inflammation often begins long before we can see visible signs such as redness, irritation, or swelling. It is a normal biological response of the immune system that helps the body defend itself against allergens, bacteria, viruses, and other potentially harmful agents.
However, modern environments expose us to a wide range of pollutants, irritants, and synthetic substances. At the same time, highly sterile lifestyles may change how the immune system reacts to everyday signals. As a result, the immune system can sometimes respond too strongly or remain activated for longer than necessary.
At the cellular level, this process involves signaling molecules called interleukins, which are part of the broader group of cytokines. These molecules allow immune and skin cells to communicate and coordinate the inflammatory response.
When inflammatory signaling becomes persistent, it can affect the skin barrier. The outer protective layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, normally acts as a barrier that limits water loss and protects the body from the external environment.
Chronic inflammatory signals can disrupt the structure of this barrier by affecting the lipids and proteins that hold it together. When the barrier becomes weaker, it allows more water to escape from the skin and makes it easier for irritants and microbes to enter. This process increases transepidermal water loss, which contributes to dryness and further irritation.
Inflammation and skin dryness often create a cycle: ongoing inflammation weakens the skin barrier, and a compromised barrier allows more irritants and microbes to trigger additional immune responses. Even before redness or irritation becomes visible, this process can quietly affect the skin at the cellular level.
We can support the skin by using molecules that help calm inflammatory signaling and protect cells from oxidative stress. Molecules such as niacinamide, quercetin, resveratrol, and vitamin D3 can regulate immune pathways and reduce the production of inflammatory cytokines, including interleukins, helping skin cells “dial down” overactive responses. These compounds can be supplied orally, through diet or supplements, or topically, in creams and serums, allowing them to act directly in the skin.
Other molecules focus on protecting the structural integrity of skin cells. Vitamin E and omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids stabilize cell membranes and support the lipid barrier, making it less susceptible to damage from inflammation and environmental stress.
A third group of molecules helps reduce microbial triggers that can perpetuate inflammation. Ingredients like panthenol and hypochlorous acid support the skin barrier while limiting the impact of potentially irritating microbes.
By combining these strategies calming inflammatory signaling, protecting cells, and reducing microbial triggers, the skin can restore its balance, strengthen its barrier, and retain hydration more effectively.